New Macon Arrivals From Chaland
Jean-Marie is based the Macon’s Viré zone, now one of the hottest appellations in all of Burgundy.
Production is small - some 3500 cases made each year. Founded in 1967, the estate went totally organic over twenty years ago, and their vine’s average age is over fifty years.
Viré-Clessé Chazelles VV 2022
The Chaland Vieille Vignes (old vines) is from a single vineyard in the Macon’s Viré-Clessé zone. The 2022 is from vines planted over sixty-five years ago. Aided by Jean-Marie’s philosophy of organic farming, the aromas of this gold-tinted chardonnay rise from the glass in inviting notes of stone and flowers. On the palate it is engaging and fine, with hints of lime zest and spice: indeed it’s more reminiscent of Chablis, though that is the hallmark of the best of wines from Viré. And —— it’s only $26.50. (!!)
Viré-Clessé La Perriere 2022
Richer pale-golden toned in color, JM’s La Perriere, is from a parcel of clay and limestone lending the wine broadness and vibrancy. Chaland’s take on this wine: “expressive, apricot blossom (those trees abound there), white peach with chalky aromas.” Splendid. $31.50
Viré-Clessé Clos du Buc 2020
The suggestion of the Macon overseers upgrading a few vineyards to 1er cru makes sense here. Chaland’s single vineyard, monopole Clos du Buc vineyard is a beautiful thing. Its blue/gray marl and shallow limestone houses these eighty year old vines and gives a good idea that something special comes this way. Juniper, candied lemon and yuzu, says the Chaland team: we’d add were this wine from a tad south of the ramparts of Beaune, the price would be twice this. $36.50