Alberto Burzi - Piedmont, Italy

THE OREGON PREMIERE 
OF A GREAT NEW NAME FROM PIEDMONT

~ A Barolo, Nebbiolo and Barbera Offer ~


Alberto Burzi is not someone from a wealthy family 
who just showed up one day and bought some “Barolo” land, no. 

Consider this:

  • Alberto’s family has recently taken back leased vineyards from Roberto Voerzio (the celebrated Capalot old vines nearing $300-ish per bottle) and from Silvio Grasso

  • Between Alberto and his Sister Caterina, they’ve worked at Rocche Costamagna, Oddero and Gagliardo, as well as a stint in Chassagne-Montrachet with Jean Claude Rateau. Both have grown up “in the family vines”

  • The family has owned their vineyards for several generations, having also sold grapes to Terre del Barolo and others — until Alberto was old enough to get started on their own wines

  • The winery makes only 1600 cases a year of all their wines

  • Many of their vines were planted in the late ‘40s and early ‘50s. There are some younger vines as well as some 80 year old vines in his wines

  • Because they currently have no vines for nebbiolo - outside the Barolo zone that is - their “nebbiolo” bottling is all from Barolo vineyards

BTW, we all know 2016 is a great Barolo vintage! However — this from Jancis Robinson on the 2017: 

The extraordinary 2017 Barolos themselves certainly perked me up… the wines were fresh rather than having rich or jammy fruit. They also tended to have succulent acidity and a muscular, tannic structure. After quite a bit of aeration the wines really opened up on the nose but the hidden depths on the palate will only be revealed after further bottle ageing, which the best crus will more than repay.

Fruit concentration is definitely there but in many cases it is still brooding, backward and, more often than not, corseted in a formidable dose of tannins. Those tannins, at least in the best wines, aren't savage or rough, just very present, and while often on the verge of astringency, they are quickly pulled back by the succulent red fruit. Regularly, a peppery tingle on the nose seemed to indicate more than average alcohol, but this never followed through on the palate and there is no trace of a hot, burning sensation on the finish. That black-pepper note perceptible on many 2017 Barolos is one of the vintage's descriptors, at least while they are in this embryonic stage.

What shines through in 2017 is the individual qualities of the crus, although according to me what is more important is how well the producer knows his or her cru(s).

In general you can't go wrong with the famous Barolo crus in 2017, but there are some notable and, in all likelihood, affordable finds, though I suspect one needs to be quick.

Click each wine for more detail.

Barbera d'Alba “Plaustra” 2019
The 2019 Barbera d’Alba is from a La Morra hillside called Plaustra, and the wine is made is stainless steel tank only. Generous, spicy, brambly and full of vitality, Burzi’s Barbera is polished, silky, long and a total delight to drink. The team here especially enjoys the balance and power of the wine. Plaustra’s combination of stony minerality and heady aromatics of dark fruit are delectable; in a way this is a regal wine, but one everyone can enjoy. $24.50

Langhe Nebbiolo “Runcaja” 2020
Great wine bargain hunters - the first criteria must always be quality and talent - and here we have both a plenty. The pedigree is very high: for starters the vines are in single vineyard IN the Barolo appellation. Alberto is looking for elegance and character in this bottling rather than a heavy-weighted powerful Barolo-like red. We adore this one, and, also as it is a just released 2020 bottling, it provides a unique opportunity to enjoy a nebbiolo as fresh as it gets. Fresh, rosy and compelling and being made in large older tonneaux, the Runcaja shines in unadulterated purity and deliciousness. $31.00

THE TWO EXCEPTIONAL BAROLO WINES

Barolo DOCG 2017
These days, for $43, a simple, fine Barolo is a wonderful deal. But here, we have an awesome, heady wine punching far above its tariff. Here is what Antonio Galloni writes: “Burzi's 2017 Barolo is fabulous. Bright, punchy and beautifully lifted, the 2017 hits all the right notes. Effusive floral notes and bright red berry fruit captures the essence of La Morra. Juicy and forward, but with just enough structure to balance things out, the 2017 is an absolute joy to taste. It is the sort of wine that is opened and finished in just a few minutes. Don't miss it.” These are the comments from Jancis Robinson “Mid ruby. Beguiling nose of ripe cherry fruit with perfumed minty notes and savoury, minerally hints. Supple, elegant and suave cherry fruit palate that closes up quickly. Fantastically polished, sandy tannins streamlining the whole. 17+” $54.00

Barolo DOCG “Vecchie Viti Capalot” 2016
If you’ve been able to find and afford the great Barolo from Capalot and Brunate of Voerzio, this is Burzi land, and the Voerzio lease is over. Here is what Galloni wrote about this one “The 2016 Barolo Capalot Vecchie Viti is dark, beguiling and very pretty. Rose petal, orange peel, cinnamon, kirsch, sweet red cherry and sweet pipe tobacco give the Capalot striking aromatic nuance and a real sense of exoticism that is quite inviting. Medium in body and constantly changing in the glass, the Capalot captures all of the complexities that make Nebbiolo and Barolo so fascinating. The tannins need time to soften, but there is plenty to look forward to once that happens.” Jancis Robinson writes “Lustrous ruby with orange. Brooding, minerally spicy fruit. Gorgeous, fresh and yet concentrated and with fantastic, tactile tannins. 17.5” $99.00
(E)

Italy, Red, Almost Direct ImportsEd PaladinoItaly, Burzi, Barolo, ADI, Nebbiolo